Aren’t we often tempted to try the very newest products promising us healthy, youthful complexions? Well, we may get better results from an ancient system of natural medicine called Ayurveda, which originated in India more than 5,000 years ago.
Scientists are finding promising results in studies investigating how Ayurvedic treatments may improve health—reducing stress, relieving pain, lowering cholesterol. So when I heard that Ayurvedic practices also apply to skin care, I contacted Nancy Lonsdorf, MD, author of The Ageless Woman: Natural Health and Beauty After Forty with Maharishi Ayurveda. Many Ayurvedic traditions that promote skin health are linked to the liver, Dr. Lonsdorf explained, because both the liver and skin are "organs of purification" that help the body get rid of toxins. That’s one reason why diet can have profound effects on the skin—consumption of nutrient-poor foods can strain the liver, as can alcohol.
According to Ayurveda, we each have three primary doshas, or guiding physiological principles—called vata, pitta and kapha—governing our bodies, minds and emotions. When all three doshas are in balance, we feel and look our best.
However, when one dosha is aggravated, there is an excess or imbalance of the qualities associated with that dosha. "Each dosha, when out of balance, can disturb digestion and metabolism in its unique way, leading to characteristic symptoms, nutritional deficiencies, a buildup of impurities—and ultimately skin problems," Dr. Lonsdorf said. Many women tend toward a long-term imbalance of one particular dosha or another. So the Ayurvedic way to optimal health—including glowing skin—depends on pacifying or decreasing that dominant dosha with specific dosha-balancing measures.
The effect of each dosha on our digestion can be visualized as a campfire. Vata’s fire burns erratically, as if the flames were alternatingly being fanned higher and then being dampened down. Pitta’s fire burns fiercely, flaming very high and very hot. Kapha burns low and slow, with small flickering flames or glowing embers. Read the sections below to identify the dosha that seems most dominant for you, then follow the rebalancing guidelines...
VATA IMBALANCE
Vata-dominant women tend to have dry, cool, thin skin with small pores. Their complexions often lack luster and wrinkle prematurely. With age, their faces may lose fullness and become sallow, darkened or shadowed. More clues: Vata women are prone to constipation, joint or muscle aches, anxiety and wavering energy levels... and they often complain of feeling cold. To rebalance vata...
Drink plenty of warm or hot water throughout the day. This restores needed warmth and hydration, increases circulation and cleanses skin from the inside out. Avoid cold drinks, which aggravate vata.
Eat at regular intervals. Irregular eating habits contribute greatly to vata imbalance, weakening digestion and exacerbating skin problems. Best: Adhere to scheduled mealtimes rather than waiting for strong hunger to prompt eating. Also: Eat mostly warm, cooked foods... limit cold and/or raw foods, such as salads.
Combat skin dryness with healthful oils. Your daily diet should include olive oil, sunflower oil or wheat-germ oil, as well as nuts.
Consume spices that aid digestion. Cinnamon, cumin, fennel and/or ginger help improve weak digestion, reducing gas and bloating and boosting nutrient absorption.
Avoid skin care products that contain preservatives or artificial ingredients. Such chemicals are too harsh for thin, delicate vata skin. Better: Use rose water for toning... moisturize with almond oil.
Manage stress. The stress hormone cortisol causes inflammation that breaks down collagen and ages skin—and vata women are prone to stress. Helpful: Meditate... practice yoga... get plenty of sleep.
PITTA IMBALANCE
In pitta-dominant women, common skin problems include excessive redness, numerous moles, susceptibility to sunburn and rashes, and the chronic inflammatory condition rosacea. More clues: Pitta women are prone to irritability, hot flashes, migraines and loose stool... have intense bursts of energy but may lack stamina... and often feel too warm even when others are cold. To rebalance pitta...
Drink pure spring water at room temperature. The warmer water that helps balance other doshas would only contribute to excessive pitta heat.
Limit spicy, acidic, fermented and processed foods—these can trigger rosacea flare-ups. Though sticking with organic foods is helpful for everyone, it is especially important to avoid artificial colors and preservatives when trying to rebalance pitta, Dr. Lonsdorf said. Some pitta women can tolerate an occasional glass of wine, but alcohol should not be consumed regularly.
Eat juicy fruits and vegetables. Particularly helpful for cooling pitta fires are fruits that are sweet (not sour or citrusy)—coconut, dates, grapes, melons, pears, pomegranates. Best vegetables include cabbage, cucumbers, leafy greens, squash, sweet corn, sweet peas and zucchini.
Use liver-supporting spices. Anise, cardamom, cilantro, coriander, fennel, saffron and turmeric aid liver function. Avoid hot spices (cayenne, chilies, garlic, mustard).
Splash your face with room-temperature whole milk, then rinse. Use this anti-inflammatory, skin-nourishing treatment once or twice a day whenever skin feels irritated and sensitive. If skin is dry, moisturize with a dab of coconut oil after cleansing.
Chill out in the evening. Pitta women often keep running at full steam late into the evening, then have trouble sleeping—which leaves them feeling and looking haggard. Better: Go to bed by 10 pm... if necessary, get up early to complete unfinished tasks.
KAPHA IMBALANCE
Kapha-dominant women have skin that is thick, oily and soft, with large pores. They often develop pimples or facial puffiness. More clues: Kapha women are prone to fluid retention, yeast infections, body stiffness, lethargy and weight gain. To balance kapha...
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